The Gems of Southeast Europe aboard AmaWaterways

Traveling with a group is More Fun.

Recently, twenty-four friends and family joined us on AmaWaterways “Gems of Southeast Europe” itinerary. This passage along the lower Danube intrigued us with ports in Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria and Romania.

We spent two days pre-cruise in Budapest, Hungary’s capital city at the Corinthia Hotel. Built in 1896 it was lovingly restored and reopened in 2003. We recommend this property for it’s gorgeous lobby, spacious rooms, extensive breakfast, and for the perfection of the indoor pool and spa.

Budapest has much to see and do and two days wasn’t enough. Famous thermal bathhouses, Ruin Bars, the Buda Castle District and grand architecture are just a few things to see. When you go, don’t miss the haunting sculpture, “Shoes on the Danube”  a memorial to the atrocities of the Holocaust. This art installation is in front of the stunningly beautiful Parliament building.

Our ship, the AmaVerde, was docked on the Pest side of the river which made exploring easy before our midnight sailing. AmaWaterways generally has fewer guests (160) with the extra space dedicated to a pool, gym, salon, and spa. Not every ship in their fleet has every amenity; but, the AmaVerde did including the wonderful Chef’s Table where each guest can dine once during the cruise indulging in elevated food and wine pairings.

A focus on fitness is evident on AmaWaterways with fitness hosts on most sailings and fitness offerings available throughout the cruise. At each port, there are multiple complimentary excursions and, most always, include a hiking, biking or kayaking adventure. Traditional walking tours and cultural immersion offerings such as culinary classes, museum visits are available.

A reminder of the Homeland Wars in Croatia. 📸 C.M.F.

One element of this trip I didn’t expect was understanding the impact recent wars and the fall of Communism had on the people. While visiting the Hungarian winery, Takler Kuria, we learned of the family’s vineyard confiscation and how they rebuilt after the fall of Communism. In Vukovar, Croatia they continue to rebuild their beautiful villages and towns while buildings still bear the bullet holes that are reminders of the Homeland War of the 90’s.

Belgrade, Serbia was an unexpected surprise. It is a city that wears its history all at once – cosmopolitan and beautiful, it’s alive with lively cafés, high-end shopping, Ottoman relics, and imposing fortresses. In Belgrade, we saw the beautiful Church of Saint Sava, one of the world’s largest churches, and visited the museum dedicated to the electrical engineering genius, Nikola Tesla.

Sailing on the lower Danube is a contrast in experiences. One morning we awoke to the dramatic Golubac Fortress perched along a wide expanse of river then later sailed through the narrow Iron Gates gorge. Towering cliffs rise on each side of the narrowed river.  We gathered on the top deck to view the scenery and marvel over the rock sculpture of Decebalus, the last king of Dacia.

The sculpture of Decebalus, the last king of Dacia.

Bulgaria offered more contrasts. A two-hour bus ride took us to Veliko Tarnovo. Along the way, we drove through countless miles of sunflower, wheat and corn fields affirming that this is Europe’s bread basket. The Church of Saints Peter and Paul is a medieval Bulgarian Orthodox church built in the 13th century at the foot of Tsarevets Hill. We had the privilege of listening to a quartet singing traditional chants and hymns. At the top of the hill is Tsarevets Fortress which is still imposing. Bulgarian Rose Oil is a premium export which we happily purchased to use at home!

The excursion choices in Vidin, Romania included a home visit to learn pastry making, hiking to the fortress or biking through town. Our visit coincided with a national holiday allowing us to enjoy local markets, dancing and festivities where the local residents charmed us with their friendliness and hospitality.

The low water levels of the Danube forced a change of plan for the captain and crew. While we missed visiting Rousse, the exceptional Cruise Director rearranged all plans so no experiences were lost. The four-day Transylvania extension included two nights in Brasov and two nights in Bucharest. Short visits to Sinoiai, a ski resort town, and Sighisoara, one of Europe’s oldest continuously occupied citadels were included.

Naturally, Dracula is a common theme among the tourist places leading up to our visit to Bran Castle the home of Vlad the Impaler. While called Dracula’s Castle, Bram Stoker’s vampire was nothing compared to the heinous Vlad. Winding staircases and turreted rooms, charmed us before arriving in the torture rooms – yikes … those people were terrors!

Our final days in Bucharest introduced us to more grand buildings aside austere, communist architecture. Several of us enjoyed a Romanian folk dancing performance at dinner while others took in one last Eastern European dinner. Let me say that you should never pass up the opportunity to try Papanasi – a doughnut concoction topped with cream and sour cherry jam – so good!

Ready to go? Call us!


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